Instead, we made camp as it hit - with strong winds whipping our tents and tarps out of our hands and strong spray blinding us as we tried to stake everything down. Once we realized that it was actually going to hop across the canyon at us, we rushed back to try to make camp before it hit. We all excitedly headed down to the edge of the plateau to see the river, and the storm kept building. When we set our packs down, I pointed out a substantial storm that was building over the Powell Plateau. We made camp on the plateau just before the trail turned back to the south.
Luckily, no permanent harm was done and the worst thing that happened was that we were short on mileage for day 1. But the truth was that we really had no idea what we were doing, and we made a long trip even longer. I'd like to say that we took the wrong route to the tanks (following the creek instead of the trail) on purpose, looking for waterholes we'd found before. Our trip for water down to Bass Tanks was hot and stressful, but in the end we got enough to drink to support a dry camp out on the point (always a preference!). I love knowing that our community of Grand Canyon devotees is not as big as one might fear, and that we all congregate in season about the waterholes and overhangs of our favorite side canyons. If you read Sirena's trip report, you'll note that a couple of the folks we ran into that day either knew her or me or both of us, which made for a fun bit of conversation. I was making up a little tune (think along the lines of Gentle On my Mind) as we hiked in. The little break you get crossing the Esplanade under the watchful eye of Mount Huethawali feels like a piece of heaven. I love this trail.up and down it is a delight to hike. It ALSO meant that we didn't have to carry the gear needed for 11 degree camping with us for the remaining 5 nights. Although it meant a very LONG hike in, it also let us spend that 11 degree night in a camping trailer (provided by the most generous Scat Daddy) rather than cowboy camping it. We originally had permits to camp at South Bass TH the night before our hike in, and we were VERY glad we changed our itinerary to drive in and hike down on the same day. Thanks to Tim for getting us out there safe and happy! Of course, the fact that I was still finding red mud in my Subaru 3 years after driving it to do Royal Arch should have been evidence enough. It seemed almost a let-down that there was no mud on the road in, as I'd really sold it hard to my hiking companions not familiar with that road that as was gnarly and potentially dangerous. A stroke of luck kept the worst of the moisture away from our area, and the roads were dry and safer than expected. The days before our hike, a storm blew into Northern AZ which threatened to make the roads impassable out to South Bass. Oh, and doing the trip this way means you have to hike out Hermit, which I hate by the way.
I vowed that come hell, high water or bad roads I would complete it this year - and the canyon pulled out some of her best attempts at stopping me. Cancelled shuttles, sick hiking partners and bad weather have cancelled my prior 3 attempts at this stretch of the trail. The Gems passage between South Bass and Hermit may not be the most difficult portion of this route, but it has proven over the years to logistically challenging and down right elusive. My concept of hiking the whole of the Tonto from the LCR to Royal Arch Creek seemed doable enough back in 2009 - and now 7 years later I can finally count it finished. I've been trying to "get er done" with this hike for years. And now, ladies and gentleman, an epic tale of adventure, danger and triumph in the grandest canyon on earth.
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